Video Installation Series. A Step by Step Video Installation Guide for Installing the E-BikeKit Conversion Kit
A few KEY POINTS before you get started:
Which way to insert the wheel - The disc brake side (the side with the 6 bolts in it to secure a disc brake rotor) should face the left with the bike forward and upright (you sitting in the seat looking down).
The Universal Torque Arm should go on the side of the axle without the wire.
C-Washers are included with front wheels and some rear wheels and are mainly used if you have recessed quick-release dropouts (where the axle enters the forks). C-washers can also be used in any installation where the flat washers are positioned inside the dropouts. Recent model kits are made to have a set of flat washers go inside the dropouts (forks or rear dropouts). In the case of recessed quick release dropouts the c-washers serve as they normally do to fill in the recessed area of quick release dropouts. In the case without quick release they may serve as outside washers. As of 11/15/2012 this is mainly particular to front direct-drive hub motors. For more information CLICK HERE.
Additional Product Update: The latest model E-BikeKit power wires have been upgraded to a two-prong waterproof and lockable plug. Anderson Powerpoles are no longer used for the power connectors from the controller to the battery. Anderson Powerpole connectors are still used on E-BikeKit chargers and for charging all E-BikeKit made SLA battery packs. Every SLA battery pack from E-BikeKit has two wires now; one for charging and one for connecting power to the controller.
E-BikeKit - Installation - Part 1 - Box Contents
E-BikeKit - Installation - Part 1 - Box Contents
E-BikeKit - Installation - Part 2 - Bike Compatibility
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 2 - Bike Compatibility
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 3 - Front Wheel Geared Motor
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 3.1 - Front Wheel Direct-Drive Motor
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 3.1 - Front Wheel Direct-Drive Motor. Electric bicycle conversion kit video from E-BikeKit.com. This is part three in a series of videos demonstrating how to install the latest Model 2011 E-BikeKit Electric Bike Conversion Kit. This video outlines the installation of the front wheel with direct-drive motor.
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4 - Rear Wheel Geared Motor
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4 - Rear Wheel Geared Motor Electric bicycle conversion kit video from E-BikeKit.com. This is part four in a series of videos demonstrating how to install the latest Model 2011 E-BikeKit Electric Bike Conversion Kit. This video outlines the installation of the rear wheel with geared motor.
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4.1 - Rear Wheel Direct-Drive Motor
E-BikeKit - Installation 2011 - Part 4.1 - Rear Wheel Direct-Drive Motor. Electric bicycle conversion kit video from E-BikeKit.com. This is part four in a series of videos demonstrating how to install the latest Model 2011 E-BikeKit Electric Bike Conversion Kit. This video outlines the installation of the rear wheel with direct-drive motor.
Step by Step Installation Guide - Latest Model Conversion Kit with Quick Disconnect
PLEASE NOTE: The installation videos are currently being updated. Updates will be posted as they are completed. We apologize for any inconvenience. For assistance with your installation call 1-866-882-3245.
Step 1 - Make Sure Your Bike is Suitable for Conversion
The E-BikeKit electric bike conversion system is universal and can be used to convert most conventional bicycles. However, there are a few criteria which must be met first.
Your front forks or rear dropouts need to be wide enough to accept the hub motor
Front forks MUST be at least 100mm at the dropouts (where the axle fits into the forks). Rear conversions require 135mm of space between the rear dropouts (this is standard for most bicycles). You may need to use a file to remove the paint form the inside of the dropouts (where the axle enters the fork or frame).
Front wheel conversions MUST use a Universal Torque Arm & C-Washer (when appropriate with certain alloy or quick release forks). Using the "C-Washers", the "Inside Safety Washers" as well as a Universal Torque Arm ensures a safe to install of the front wheels on "non-steel" & quick release forks.
Please Note: The rear motor axles are 12mm diameter and machined 10mm on the flats. Depending on the forks, a small amount of filing may be required to make the dropout slot wide enough to fit the 10mm axle width.
You should always use a Universal Torque Arm with front wheel conversions.
For more information and instructional videos regarding torque arm installation search Youtube for “e-bikekit, torque arm”. Torque arms are included with every E-BikeKit with the exception of the rear geared motor kit. Torque arms provide increased support at the axle and are used to prevent the axle from ever "spinning out" inside the dropouts. Front wheel conversions require torque arms.
Step 2 - Transfer Your Tire and Tube & Install the Hub Motor Wheel
You will need to transfer you’re existing tire and inner tube or a new tire and inner tube to the E-BikeKit wheel. Next you will insert the E-BikeKit wheel into the forks (fronts) or rear of the frame. You may need to use a file to remove the paint form the inside of the dropouts (where the axle enters the fork or frame). After ensuring the axle is flush inside the dropouts you can secure the rim in place. If you have quick release forks with an indented space on your front forks you MUST use the supplied “c-washers” to fill the indented space so that all the hardware is flush. Make sure you secure the bolts tightly and use the supplied universal torque arm to keep the motor from spinning within the fork.
BE CAREFUL: If you apply power and the axle is not secured tightly, the motor will try to turn inside the dropouts, permanently damaging the wires connecting the motor. This is called “spinout” and is not covered under warranty.
Inflate the tire, secure the brakes and flip the bike back over. Re-install and adjust the brakes. The new rim and old rim are likely not 100% the same, so adjust the brake pads so that they engage the rim with full contact. Adjust the cable for enough free-play to keep the brake pads off the wheel during rotation. Electric bikes require more attention and care to brakes since you will normally be riding at higher speeds. Inspect your brakes and brake pads regularly for wear and tear.
Step 3 - Install the Throttle & Brake Handles
Next remove the grips from the handle bars to replace the brake handles (optional use) and install the throttle. The E-BikeKit includes both left and right brake handles with internal magnetic switches that cutoff power and deactivate the throttle when braking. You will need to connect your existing caliper brake inner-wires to the E-BikeKit™ brake handles.
After installing the brake handles, install the throttle. Both throttle types (split-twist & thumb) are included. Which you use will be decided by how you change gears and your personal preference. Simply slide the throttle onto your right side handlebar and tighten in place with the provided 3 mm hex wrench.
Next, connect the throttle and e-brakes (if using them) to the “accessory wire”. Both throttle and e-brake handles are connected by simply plugging in the headphone jack connectors. The accessory wire will then plug into the accessory extension wire and that will plug into the controller (typically mounted near the rear of the bike).
Step 4 - Securing the SLA Battery Pack / Charging the SLA Battery
How you do this will depend on the battery you are using. The E-BikeKit
electric bike conversion kit system will work with any 36v or 48v e-bike
battery pack. The E-BikeKit SLA battery comes in a canvas bag and is
secured to a standard rear rack using 4 Velcro straps located on the four corners of the bag. Simply wrap each of the straps around the rack, pull tight and secure them using the Velcro.
Charge your battery using the supplied 2amp SLA charger. Simply connect the red and black connectors from the charger to the battery pack. The connection should always be red to red and black to black. You should charge your SLA battery shortly after every use and store it full whenever possible.
The charger will have a RED light during charging and be GREEN
when fully charged.
The charger will get warm during charging (this is normal). Do not cover the charger or leave it inside a bag, allow plenty of air for the heat to dissipate.
You can leave the charger plugged in for short periods of time (1-2 days); this will not harm the battery. However, do NOT leave the charger connected to the battery for long periods of time.
Step 5 - Mount the Controller
The controller Can be mounted anywhere on the bike. Typically the controller is mounted near the rack or seat post using zip ties. The controller can also be neatly tucked inside the SLA canvas bag if the battery pack is small enough to allow for it. The controller can be mounted in any position and is water-resistant.
Step 6 - Run the Wiring
For a clean install, route all of the wires toward the back of the bike and secure the wires with the supplied zip ties. Make sure you have full range of motion with the handlebars when tying back the wires and leave some slack at each zip tie.
Step 7 - Connect the Electronics
In the front of the bike from the handle bars you will have the wires for the throttle and e-brakes connected to the accessory wire (3-1), the accessory wire will connect to the accessory extension wire and then to the controller. The other extension wire (thicker) is for the motor. This will connect from the motor and run back to the controller. These are you only two wire that will run the length of the bike. The third wire on the controller has a black and red connector and that is for your connect the battery connector black to black and red to red. If using your own battery you can use the supplied battery wire harness to convert you battery connector and do the same.
When all connections are correctly and securely attached, plug your battery into the controller. There is an on/off toggle switch on the back of the controller. The switch must be in the ON position to operate the system.
Step 8 - Make Final Adjustments & Enjoy
Make sure the brakes are adjusted, the wheel is secure and everything is functioning as expected. With the controller on/off in the on position try engaging the throttle to test the system with the hub motor wheel lifted off the ground. If anything is not working properly call customer service for help.